20181121: Wien | Venice

The brick texture of the walls of the buildings was exposed. The constant erosion from saline air and water revealed the materials of the buildings. The capillary rise followed by evaporation of saltwater in the bricks leave a dusty crystalline color. Plasterwork was chipping off, like a fresco. Those large bricks which I had mistaken for sandstone in New York, were, here, denounced as mere brick that had been cut away into oversized blocks and then plastered over.

The little municipal or civic activity that one sees on the island of Venice are workers repairing the surfaces of buildings. Repainting, replastering, or digging up the streets to access the electrical or telephone lines buried beneath. Occasionally one sees boats with supplies delivering goods, or picking up waste, emptying a building’s septic system, but primarily one sees the reconstruction of the building surfaces; it must be constant. A perpetual renovation.

The infrastructure built in response to this unique condition includes slightly arched calle that divert flood and rain water to the edges of the passageways where slitted trachyte permit water to sink into underground channels. Roof tiles repel water down into gutters that drain down several stories. At the base of entrances to homes that are vacant for long periods one finds wooden barricades to forestall high tide. And of course the gondolas and vaporettos for transportation.

It was November and the presence of the canals were three fold: a putrid smell of the canals into which gatoli empty waste; a physical obstacle that made pedestrian tourist entering a ramo, turn around, and seek out foot bridges; and the solid, light-green color. The smell was overwhelming during the first day, and then basically unexceptional. The bridges form familiar paths through the city. And I was surprised I didn’t bored of the beautiful, picturesque view down each canal as I crossed a bridge.

The color of the water was jarring. It appeared synthetic, yet it was organic – the thorough presence of algae that were flourishing due to organic compounds in the water, sunlight, and shallow, stagnant water that empties twice a day. Venice is a laboratory of engineering innovation but also a paradise for this microorganism.

Vienna felt like a classic city that has made an effort to modernize in every way, but only on a modest scale. There wasn't a towering downtown, but there were only a few high rises. It wasn’t a smart city, but there are plans to build a smart city area. People live and work there, and it was apparent. There are centralized tourist areas around Museumsquartier and the old center. But Venice felt like one giant Time Square in which it was unclear as to whether anyone actually lived and worked there, and if they did, whether they worked outside of the tourist economy. The city is frozen in a simplification of its own tourist attractions. Restaurants with white and red checkered tablecloths, pizzerias, masks, Murano glass works, and cafes. Even the city itself, which includes mainland Mestre-Carpenedo, Marghera, Favaro Veneto, Chirignago, Zelarino, Tessera, is reduced to the historic Venetian island when referenced as "Venice." But it's an amazing human construction, and it's historic importance is indisputable. The fact of its physical erosion, is even more prescient in the era of a global climate catastrophe.

If a city is a Stone Age material, the stone was believed to endure through water.


[1] "Venice Backstage: How does Venice work?" Insula spa, Venice Municipality, 2011

https://vimeo.com/21688538

20181122: Venezia | Mestre

Marco told me that there was an ugly, industrial area on the mainland near Venice. The implication was that I shouldn't visit there. So of course I had to see it for myself.

Every 5 minutes a train runs between Venezia Santa Lucia and Mestre train station. It was 1.30€ and took about 15 minutes to arrive. The view of la laguna, its use by rowing teams and kayakers reminded me how locals adapt a tourist attraction to personal interests. Mestre has the feeling of a suburb, or really an anywhere–European city. The visible difference is that the people on the streets didn't look like tourists and and didn't look like the stuffy Venetian locals: Asians, Africans, Caucasians; the periphery of diversity. The buildings were larger and looked from the 1960s or 1970s – occupying between 30 and 50 percent of a modern city block; they were taller than the Venetian structures by three or four stories. The roads were wider. And there were basically no canals; I saw only one channelized river, the Riviera Magellano, in the historic center. The prices of everything were several euros less. A caffe, 1€. There were school children, motorcycles, and many shopkeepers didn't speak English. For 1,30€ one could arrive to Italy for Venice.

We walked up via Piave to Via Giudosue Carducci and then over the historic center. I realized that this was the equivalent of the suburbs; I felt the air of possibility there, which was suffocatingly absent in Venezia. The latter is the Time Square of Italy; the former, Cornellà de Llobregat. Venice is determined, dense, and layered in history. It's been a tourist destination for centuries. It's the playground of the rich and cultured, the nouveau riche and uncultured, those who have traveled the world, and those who have avoided it. Mestre is land: fertile, potent.

I fantasized about starting a small, early to mid-career arts colony here; a Lower East Side or Bushwick, a potentiality to the achieved and the supported; a proximity to the arrived. An industrial zone where the young and curious and dig and the shins of the grayed and bored. Where imagination can fabricate during the two years between the Bienniale; a haven where the prices of the Island can be avoided and where the issues that concern real artists today–gentrification, urbanism, environmentalism, social justice, grass roots movements, the virtual, the verge–can be taken off the shelf of the Giardini or Arsenale and lived, tried and experimented with in situ. And of course, by doing so, the world and the community would be changed.

The one element that makes Venice seem "inauthentic"–the corporate chains, like Gucci, H&M, and McDonald's–makes Piazza Erminio Ferretto feel authentic. We spotted a Lupo Negro off the square where blue-collar workers were leaving, which is always a good sign of decent food in Europe. Inside Lupo Nero we sat near a monochrome watercolor of a large wolf, staring at me. One of the many wolf-themed works in the restaurant. I order the lunch menu: spaghetti aglio e olio and vegetables, zucchini, carrots and potatoes. Vanessa had scallops and spaghetti with mussels. I realized that the service, which is stereotypically classified as "bad" is actually just oriented to delivering food to customers over closing a customer's bill.

Osteria Lupo Negro is located off of Piazza Erminio Ferretto, named after the anti-fascist insurgent who fought against Franco and later undermined the industrial production for materials headed from Italy to Nazi-Germany. His nom de guerre was "The Venetian." [1]

In the evening we returned to Santa Lucia and walked over the island back to the hotel to wait for dinner. We walked down Piazza San Marco to Harry’s, the alleged birthplace of the Martini. Inside, a man was holding the entire bar for his colleagues, who were arriving. The waiter rudely tossed us the menu and said the entire place was booked. I glanced around and saw only single woman, advanced in age, seated at the tables, alone, watching the group of young men cluster inside to their friend, and us. 24€ for a martini? We turned around and walked out, catching a grimace from the bartender. Wandering around on the northern shore of the island, we unsuccessfully found a place for a night cap, before making our way back to the hotel.


[1] Storia della Resistenzia veneziana
http://resistenzaveneziana.blogspot.com/

20181123: Dorsoduro | Murano

A day pass to the Vaporetto is 17€ and if you don’t wake up early, it’s hard to get your money’s worth because just a ride from Dorsoduro to Murano can take an hour and a half. If you’re not in a hurry and just want to see Venice but don’t want to walk or pay the extortionary 85€/hour of a gondola, the vaporetto is wonderful. The first thing you notice is the immense distance around the perimeters of each island. While a straight line, even made crooked by canal bridges, is the shortest distance between two points, with the addition of the z-axis over which the vaporettos traverse on the crashing waves, the distance around the island is even longer. While the vaporettos traverse the busy Grand Canal they do not enter the extensive inner canal networks. In other words, traveling by Vaporetto is a route of approximation, both in time and space.

Murano was a severe disappointment. I had really expected some thriving cultural activity and museums due to this island being the origins of contemporary glass art. I wanted to see glass blowers handling a molten yellow orb, maybe losing an eye or doing something moderately dangerous. Instead it was just an empty version of Venezia with shops of the same glass trinkets and animals, most of which were cheaper on Venezia. We went into a cafe immediately after getting off the boat and got up and left after looking at the menu. We ventured further into the island and saw a group of workers smoking outside of modest looking establishment. Inside it was packed.

We ordered a liter of the house wine, which was twice as much as we needed or wanted. The server was friendly and every table seemed to just order more and more wine and food. Even the kids were drunk. Seriously, the waiter had to cut the whole family off.

On the ride back we made a last minute decision to disembark on Cimiteri San Michel and see the grave of Stravinsky and Ezra Pound. We found Stravinsky, which was covered in flowers but it was trying to rain and Vanesa was too impatient to dedicate time to finding the headstone of a fascist, regardless his metric prowess. Pound was a Mussolini supporter who fell on the wrong side of history; poorly measured gamble.

20181124: Hotel Belle Arti | Leonardo da Vinci in Chiesa Santa Barnaba

The alarm sounded at breakfast. All of the guests in the dining area looked at each other, breaking the myopic gaze of anonymity that we self-impose in shared public spaces.

"It's the flooding. What else can it be?" a young man said directly to me, as if we had got to know each other each morning in our adjacent tables. The woman who guarded the cappuccino machine, ensuring no guest pushed the single button that made a cappuccino, didn’t flinch at the sound. She knew her post would extend as visitors stayed inside.

The deciding factor for Vanesa was the rain. She didn’t want to repeat the puddles and water drops on her glasses from yesterday, so she ascended to our room to wait out the forecasted afternoon sunlight. I felt adversely. In the weeks before our flight here, Venice had been under a historically unusual high water. All of the newspapers were showing tourists wading up to their wastes through water. Vanesa had wondered if we shouldn’t cancel our trip; but for me, with my interest in urban design interfacing with climate, this was a perfect opportunity to capture footage of the slow erosion of normality on dry land.

FIrst, I ventured out and see if I could collect some algae from the canals, using a dirty pillowcase I sequestered from housekeeping and weighted with a brick that I had found some days before. A rubber band from a tree to bound my pole to my net.

The water looked solidly blue-green, and the acqua alta had brought the water onto the ruga of Dorsoduro up to about 3 inches in most places. In searching for a dry path off the island, I was playing a little memorization game of where I could go and how to return. I navigated to a relatively unpopulated ramo and attempted my contraption. A few tourists watched me with confusion and horror: Is that guy collecting wastewater from the canals?But the blue-green liquid was elusive. A wet-dry vac filter would have been perfect. A project for another time.

I returned for my camera and shot a few static scenes of the water, tourist negotiating the tide and waves crashing onto the island. If you look closely at the edge of fondamenta, you can see the layers of the marble, sometimes only a few centimeters thick, to lift the city against the rising tide.

By 10 another alarm sounded and the water had retreated. The masengo still looked and were wet, and the arch in the center appeared more exaggerated, elevated. We left the hotel and meandered through the streets with a tentative idea of having a coffee and/or finding more/better gifts.

At Caffe Brasilia I overheard a couple talking with a recent expat, assuring her that she would be speaking Italian within two months, and then coached her on a few expressions to accompany her anecdote about dancing with a gentleman the evening before. As people passed the table, the couple greeted them. Had we found a local cafe where actual Venetians came?

I sketched the street while Vanesa had a glass of wine. In the seeing I found the ages and ages that had layered story after story of the casa fondaco’s architectural "improvement." Television antennae; informal roof-decks. The notion of history, in reference to place, is the ambiguous allusion to this layering. In buildings you can read the shift of aesthetics paradigms, but also the change in municipal codes (or absence of them!), the appreciation of neighborhood identity, when areas are collectively or simultaneously created, and even the intention of individuals to respond to everyday conditions of light, rain, wind, decoration, luxury, or poverty–everything we as living humans compromise in the utterance of "life." At times even death is visible. The architecture is a material manifestation of history. A man-made geological formation. "History" is not just architectural, of course, but having an entrance into the historical is useful if one wants to transcend the "10 Places to Visit in Insert City" list.

I visited the “Machines of da Vinci” exhibition at Chiesa di Santa Barnaba. After paying the 8€ and being directed through the shoddily hung black curtain that was the entrance, I already knew that I had been had. The exhibition was essentially wooden maquettes of the drawings of the machines of Leonardo with an explanation of the importance of the technology, accompanied with a pixelated image of the page of his notebook in which one could see the drawing. What was disappointing was that no actual works were shown. Being in Italy, I had expected more, at least antiquated models! It was an educational rather than cultural exhibition, and the production of the exhibition (excluding the models which were pretty well produced) looked cheap, as if the church was trying to raise money for its physical repair.

Aside from the presentation of the works, the exhibition emphasized the military application of his designs and the centrality of the problems of friction and gravity he sought to solve. The most interesting work was Leonardo's bicycle. Unlike the rest of the miniature models that fit on a plinth, the bicycle was the size. The explanatory text described how two sheets of paper that had been glued together for centuries were recently separated and the restorers had found the design of a gear-chain bicycle. Since several other models in the exhibition have chains or gears, it didn't seem completely unlikely. Still, how come I had never heard Leonardo invented the bicycle?

The story of the Leonardo bicycle is more complicated than just the engineering. According to several source, this drawing was a forgery, created by Italian monks who were restoring Leonardo's Atlanticus Codex in the 1970s. But the drawing was not the only fraudulent construction. Two narratives hinge on this drawing: The first is the ongoing dispute of which country can claim one of its citizens as the inventor of the bicycle. If Leonardo had produced these drawings, the Italians would claim credit for one of the greatest human transportation devices. Most historians believe that prize goes to Germany, whose civil servant, Karl von Drais, at the University of Heidelberg made a crude drawing of a man on a bicycle with no pedals in 1818.[1] This fits since bicycles were not in use until the 19th Century.

The other narrative at stake in veracity of the drawing is Leonardo’s status as genius, or more subtly, what a genius does and doesn't draw. According to a historian who had examined the Atlanticus Codex prior to its restoration, there was no bicycle on those glued together pages, only a primitive drawings of penes. The supposition had been that the penes were drawn by a disciple of Leonardo, since no serious genius would doodle a penis, moreover multiple penes. But when the monks were restoring the papers and found the penes, they made the testicles into bicycle wheels, and the shafts into the bike frame.[2]

The battle for the bicycle and the status of Leonardo doesn't end with this exhibition, or academic disputes of authenticity. 2019 would be the 500 year anniversary of his death in France, and the Louvre was planning a large exhibition, which included many works borrowed from around the world, including Uffizi. The right-leaning Italian government detests the idea that the French exhibition will not only overshadow their own, but make any competing exhibition impossible. The fact that the Louvre possesses more paintings by Leonardo than any other museum in the world, seems to nullify the nationalist frustration of Italy. [3] But had the restorers not erased the penes, the Italians could have really competed with a show called, “Leonardo’s Hard Ons.” That would have been a crowd pleaser. And why stop at Leonardo? How about, “500 Years of Genius Penes,” and get Picasso in there?

In the evening we continued our tour for food and drinks around Venice, stopping at several bars with varying quantities of tourists, pretension, and youth. All Arco, which closed at 14, was the busiest and probably the best food. At Chet Bar, I directly asked the bartender if Venice is thought to have the worst food in Italy. He agreed without hesitation. As a city populated by students, 50,000 inhabitants, and perpetual tourists, he framed the culinary achievement as inconsequential for the survival of a business. We closed the evening with a drink at Corner Bar, laden with Wake Forest stickers. It had a better Negroni than Chet Bar, and it was twice the size. An unleashed dogs begged for our basket of chips, and I happily fed him while I drew penes in my notebook.


[1] Bicycle: The History, David Herlihy, Yale University Press, 2004.
https://books.google.it/books?id=VDlaT0KxJfAC&redir_esc=y
[2] "Oh yer bike, Leonardo," Jonathan Knight. New Scientist, October 18, 1997.
https://www.newscientist.com/article/mg15621044-300-on-yer-bike-leonardo/
[3] "Italy livid about deal to loan Leonardo works to Louvre," Frances D'Emilio, Associated Press, November 24, 2018
https://www.apnews.com/44f45977636646fba5abc47b5bf4f4ea

20181125: Venezia | Graz

We didn't visit the Arsenale nor the Giardini exhibition spaces of the Venezia Biennale Architettura but we found several of the participating alternative spaces around Venice. The most remarkable was the Romanian storefront comprised of childhood games that were played during the communist era. A screening room in the back showed interviews with people who were recalling the games they played and suggested that, during that era, the children made use of informal space, essentially making it a public space. The video suggested that this tradition ended because of a concern for child safety in the neighborhood. It wasn’t clear if the participants were inferring that the danger was a direct result of transitioning from communism to capitalism, or a general concern for child safety internationally. [1]

Anti-cruise ship banners hung from some of the apartment buildings in Venice. Leaving la Laguna, I saw the forest of streets and canals in totality and the enormous cruise ships at bay. In Manhattan I actively avoid Time Square, so I can sympathize with the local distaste for the hordes of tourists. But on the other hand, Manhattan and Venice share a history of having been a point of exchange, a massive supermarket of goods brought to these ports for trade, international exchange and the fact that people settled there and made cities, neighborhoods, communities and a life there, can also be thought of as an unfortunate decision of territorializing these chunks of Earth that probably should have not been inhabited. Perhaps "decision" isn't the right word; perhaps "condition" is more accurate. In either phrasing, the work in progress that is Capitalism had the unfortunate dependence on the human organism for movement, production and exchange and the proximity that we have situated our lives to our jobs has never been comfortable nor logical. Why we have adapted a live/work situation with our offices in our pockets is no more or less probable than had the trend gone the other way, that we had decided to live at our work, that we slept under desk counters at shopping malls, or that we abandoned our personal space for our work space, rather than bring our work space into our personal space.

On the Flixbus from Venice to Graz, I sat in the seat near the stairs and bathroom. It was both the best and worst seat, since I had more spacious room and a small desk, but also a view into each passengers' descent into the bathroom and any subsequent smells. Along the way, I saw a hillside with a half-dozen red banners with golden spears; a regional flag? The small towns tucked into these hills made me realize how long I has been in cities; I could only vaguely remember the way of life there; knowing everyone by name; watching television as a conduit to the world, rather than for entertainment or “culture;” seeing people grow up, rather than knowing they too will grow old; the Milky Way at night; tickets from a sheriff with whom you once shared class; the rumors of the motivations of a suicide; garage sales; having no plan, only a way of life.

The bus picked up double the passengers in Trieste. The hilly, seaport city reminded me of parts of Spain. Joyce spent time there. It looked like a lovely city to visit or escape to or from. In Ljubljana more passengers got on, including a young woman from Vienna, named Eva. She saw that I was editing a video and asked if I worked in television. I told her that I was editing an interview for an experimental documentary about activist who were trying to protect trees. She was reading an anthology about the mythology of each tree and was too interested in my work and New York to let me get back to work. She had been visiting her boyfriend, who was a neuroscience graduate student in Ljubljana. She had been in a long-distance relationship with him since he was an undergraduate at Oxford and her tangible yearning for intimacy was as palpable as her comfort with illogically inconvenient human relations. We talked about cities and countries and, like so many Austrians I had met on this trip, she was astonished by the stereotypical shortcomings of the US: the healthcare system; the homeless problem; the shootings that are more frequent than peaceful protest. Like many Europeans with whom I’ve spoken she had absolutely no interest in giving up her privileged life in Europe.

Returning to Graz, it felt like home. The rain at hauptbahnhof, the homeless, the tram to Hauptplatz and then back to my room in the seminary.

We end up visiting cities because that is where the train, planes, buses and boats go, hopefully taking us to where our loves also are.

[1] “The Map: Biennale Arch 2018,” Venezia News, 2018.
Romania /2,” New Gallery of the Romanian Institute for culture and Humanistic Research, Palazzo Correr Campo Santa Fosca, Cannaregio 2214.

20181126: Wasserwerkgasse | Waste Treatment Plant

Werner Sprung greeted us in his office at 9 am. Two plates of pastries, a jar of water taken directly from the groundwater, and an espresso. The onsite lab at Holding Graz tests the groundwater daily for pollutants. The site is a water protection area. The building is new, compartmentalized with electronically locked doors and nearly no overhead lights required. Floor to ceiling windows illuminated the hallways. A modest two stories but thoughtfully laid out with a parking garage partially below ground level.

Before we began filming Werner stated that he trusted we wouldn't use the video for the Green Party, who would rather "throw Molotov cocktails" at him. I assured him that my interest was artistic and not propagandistic and that, while I intended to express the concerns of members of the activist group, my aim was to show the ZSK as an urban design project. I was transparent about my intention to ask him about the protest during the interview and he agreed.

Sprung showed us a presentation of the Zentraler Speicherkanal on powerpoint that included the profile of the city and the sewer system. The extent of the catchment area, the age and history of the sewer system. The statistics that he drew out, one of which was repeated, was that the combined sewer overflow would reduce 70% of the untreated wastewater entering the Mur. Prior to the ZSK only 30% of the combined sewer overflow is treated when there was rainfall. A few minutes into the presentation I realized that the only thing more mind-numbing than a powerpoint presentation is a powerpoint presentation on video. It’s not the content nor presenter, it’s the format. The audio into the C100 had reset to microphone rather than XLR when I unplugged it for transport and most of the footage was unusable. Amateur mistake.

The rainwater diversion was a motivating factor that I had heard again and again. But the benefits of the ZSK were not just reducing untreated wastewater entering the river, but the additional storage that would allow for Holding Graz to clean and renovate the existing sewers, some of which are over a century old. Currently, in order to renovate sewers, a line would be closed and the wastewater would be diverted to the Mur, increasing contamination.

The origin of the sewers in Graz followed a deadly flood in 1880 (1860?), the creeks were covered to reduce flooding; subsequently the pipes of homes were connected to the covered creeks. The idea of connected a rainwater runoff to the existing covered creeks was to wash away the smell that accumulated in the sewers.

Werner's response to the protest was that he could not understand why anyone would be against the improvement of the water quality of the Mur. He described how brown streaks can be seen on either side of the Mur during rainy days, and how anything, even bicycles, can be found in a sewer. He laughed at the suggestion of ignoring the organic waste that entered the Mur because fish liked it. His role at Holding Graz was system optimization. It was in his essay that I had first learned about the ZSK.

After the presentation, Sprung offered to show us the wastewater treatment plant.

The great thing about a city employee is they usually know a lot about random information about the built environment that would be otherwise difficult to obtain. While visiting the Schloßberg I had noticed that buildings in Graz are almost uniformly capped at four stories. The explanation, Sprung said, was that the building regulation was informed by the air quality concern for stagnating pollution that is typical for the geographic location of a city at the base of a mountain range. That is, the concern for the tiny particulate matter that the tree defenders were describing was already inscribed into the city code. But if growth was underway and height is capped, then the result is sprawl.

We passed through a 10 km long tunnel, part of the freeway that passed under the city. The design of this tunnel, Sprung noted, was a compromise between planners who wanted to add a freeway through the city and opposition that worried about the effects of automotive amputation. (It reminded me of an alternate universe in which Robert Moses’ Cross-Bronx Expressway had been designed with an iota of compassion for community.) Fortunately, tunneling is a specialty of the Austrians, and can be seen in the Schloßberg tunnels, which were used as bomb shelters in WWII. Under the Graz Hauptbahnhof there are tunneled wine cellars, no longer in use, and of course the sewer and combined sewage overflow, which are also tunnels, though constructed differently than the technique Sprung described, that is produced through the use of explosives, allowing the surrounding rock to collapse to a certain distance to increase the load pressure, like a keystone arch, before being reinforced with metal and then covered in cement. The Montanuniversitaet Leoben is one of the institutions that specialize in this peculiar form of engineering.

At the treatment plant, Werner walked us through the stages of purification, from untreated water to initial solid suspension and separation, large and small sand and gravel, bacterial treatment in anaerobic digesters (which predate New York’s Newtown Creek facility by three decades), into another holding tank and out to the final stage before being sent into the Mur. The water isn’t potable, but there are plans to implement higher purification, such as pharmaceuticals, in the coming decade. I asked Sprung about the impetus to create the wastewater treatment plant, whether the European Union Wastewater Framework directive included mandatory renovation of the sewer system. It did not, he answered, because such a directive could not be enforced across the continent, due to a lack of funding. We saw only two other people while on the tour; most of the processes in the plant must be automated.

20181127: Technische Universitat | Zentraler Speicherkanal

Holding Graz and Technical University collaborate on developing technologies for urban management–functional systems of analysis, data and spending. The term that came up again and again when talking with experts from these institutions was "clean water.” What is “clean” exactly?

In contrast to the Dakota Access Pipeline, the Tar Sands, or even the EU's ITER energy project, Graz's contestation of the ZSK was uniquely Austrian. While North Americans militarize against protesters opposed to non-renewal, fossil fuel energy, or the French protest against nuclear energy, the ZSK is the center of three parties that all fight environmental improvement, although each party has a different notion of what that entails. The city, represented by Holding Graz, aims to reduce the untreated wastewater entering the Mur. Their position is water quality. The hydropower plant hopes to produce renewable energy for Graz. And the activists are concerned for the ecological well-being of the river, fish, snakes and the trees.

The perception of hydropower plant is duplicitous because many Grazers deduce their intentions as strictly monetary. The fact that the second largest political party in Graz has traditionally been the Communist party, exaggerates the opposition to financial interest over environmental and social benefit. Compounded with the political negation of surveys and grassroots activists who mobilized a referendum on the issue, the frustration of impunity adds insult to injury. But, as Steve Weiss stated, the general perception in Austria of hydropower is positive. Even on a global level, hydropower is considered renewable energy. At COP24, the EU lauded hydropower as a clean source of energy (the political point was that COP24 was in Poland where the right-wing government is supporting the use of coal).

Dr. Kainz, who was the department chair and now the rector of the Technische Universitat, was the Godfather of the ZSK, brokering the benefits between Verbund, which needed traction for their hydro power plant, and Holding Graz, which needed a sewer extension. Kainz had directed me to Gruber as a contact who would speak about the TU’s involvement and design of the ZSK project. Gruber's research began in 2002, when his team began studying the quantities of sewer overflow in the Graz catchment area. His research video has been used in educational settings for the last decades, and I recognized some of the footage from Werner Sprung's presentation.

It was 2pm and overcast; the late-November daylight was bluing. Günter took us to the ZSK construction site. I was hoping to enter the ZSK. We started on a bridge to nowhere, a blockaded extension that overhung the Mur by a few meters. In rainy times, rainwater enters the same drainage canals in the sewers as is used by wastewater from houses and buildings. Because the surface of the city is polluted with toxins, it’s necessary to treat it, especially after the first rain. But excesses of both greywater and rainwater spill out of the channels along the sewers and join the flow of the covered creeks and river, exiting to the Mur at an outpoint. The Zentraler Speicherkanal spans 3 kilometers and connects to exists sewer overflow points, effectively catching the wastewater before it enters the Mur and stores it in compartments that are separated by movable weirs. When the wastewater treatment plant is no longer at capacity, the weirs drop, causing a wave motion, which causes the wastewater to disturb the settled sediments on the floor of the storage canal and wash everything down to the treatment plant. Günter explained all of this from his perch on the bridge, which he explained was used for dumping snow into the Mur. From the bridge he pointed out R 05, the first wastewater outpoint that he studied back in 2002. (Why untreated snow was being dumped into the river, given the polluted surfaces from which it is plowed, while rainwater is diverted, mixed with stored and requiring more funding in the name of the ZSK was not specified.)

It's curious that all three groups of interviewees–the activists Regelsberg and Ulls, Sprung and Gruber–all foresaw and called for the integration of green and blue solutions, like roof gardens, bioswells, and tree planting. The difference was the scale of efficacy that each party claimed. The activists implied blue and green initiatives could have substituted the net effect of the ZSK. Sprung suggested it would be necessary in the future. Gruber stated that it depended on the profile of the city, but that pipes were almost always necessary to solve the problem of flooding and surface pollution run off.

We crossed the pedestrian bridge to see the movable weirs that were under construction. The hydropower plant would raise the height of the Mur by 6 meters at the dam. I asked how close to the underside of the bridge it would be, and guest a few meters; he confirmed my estimate, but I presumed it was a translation issue.

20181128: Systems | Cycles

Last night das Land Steiermark held the annual ceremony for the arts, which included the category of awards for the resident artists from abroad. On the way down into the Neue Galerie in the Universalmuseum Joanneum, Vera and I were talking about the right to be forgotten and the distinction between the American obsession with taking photos and the fledgling European concern for digital privacy and owning one’s image. We entered into a schilcher-propelled social situation and were soon ushered into reserved seats at the front of the house. The ceremony got underway. I understood very little of the obligatory speeches made by the master of ceremony, the director of culture, or the introduction about the artists, including myself. I felt like I was in a bad dream in which I was in class and about to take test for a language for which I had been ill-prepared. But what could have been nascent anxiety was constantly undermined or aborted by the performance group, das Planetenparty Prinzip, who were hand-delivering each award to the stage, augmenting the event by 30-45 seconds per awardee. For the first five awardees, the interruption was charming, wonky and strange. The master of ceremony was enchanting; sarcastic and sincere. She seemed to tower over the audience, who seemed to be enjoying the raucous. By the fifteenth award and ongoing speeches, I was wondering if this would ever end, and hoping Prinzip would speed it this up, or whether this wasn’t a creative addition at all but a necessary component of all award ceremonies in Austria. At the stage, I took a selfie bomb with the other artists in residence.

Editing the footage of Martin, Romana, Werner and Gunter made me feel like a moderator of this dispute, as if my project could either side with one or none of them, anger all of them, or appease their inability to come to an agreement. At my core, I know that this isn't my role as an artist, nor is it the requirement of the work, nor my interest in this mess, but it would be dishonest to say that, in contrast to the otherwise anonymous, cool and detached disposition of Grazers, the moments I spent talking to these individuals did germinate a sense of intimacy, even friendship. And that it must be my cynical New York nerves that suspected this may have been a calculated, intentional process–how each participants entrusts in my the delicate handling of their image.

The compromise that I've since realized is not really a compromise at all, but a re-conceptualization of the issue. While at first I sensed that the debate was what constituted environmentally friendly design, i.e. sustainable power, a livable city, or an ecological aquatic state, now I think that the issue is the membership to a system of thought–what system we use to conceptualize our surroundings, and which cycles that we are trained to identify. Systems may have static or dynamic elements, but each component’s membership (meta or discrete) is, by definition, constant. Systems can be linear or cyclical. The components of a system may be conceptual or three-dimensional objects, but the system itself is a mental construct without dimension. The activists were thinking of ecological cycles. Holding Graz was focused on the man-made sewer system. TU was preoccupied with engineering a variation of a flush system that acted as a storage system.

A cycle is a system that necessarily repeats. Clocks, astronomical bodies, biological functions. While church bells institute time punctuality to religious reverence, Pavlov's salivating dog is the metabolic cycle hacked.


[1] Das Planetenparty Prinzip
https://planetenparty.at/

20181129: Utopia | Symbols

I met Marleen and Michael, a young couple who work under the name of Studio ASYNCHROME, in their two-floor studio in the catacombs of Schaumbad. The space had a healthy mix of packed artworks in boxes, coming from or going to exhibitions, and works in progress. Michael and Marleen had studied architecture, and their exhibition preparation showed that: A model of the Kunstahalle Graz where they recently showed some of their artworks, offered a bird's eye view of the layout, how visitors navigated the space, since most of the works were two-sided drawings and displayed off of the wall. The skylight drew us to a large table in the the center of the studio.

Studio space is always the first point of entry when I visit artists in any city other than New York. In contrast to Michael & Marleen’s enormous studio, it's fair to say that production is different for 99% of artists in New York. Studio ASYNCHROME got out of graduate school four years ago, and have a two-story, 800 square foot space to produce and store artwork and have visitors. By explaining what it was like to work in New York City, I inadvertently reminded or convinced myself of why there: the people to meet. The sheer number of amazing people. The frequency of meeting amazing people. The ideas and projects of impressive people. But not the studios, or rather lack thereof.

The works in their studio were representational drawings made of collaged situations, all rendered with monotone comic-book aesthetics that included text bubbles as well as text fields, graphs and data visualizations. They describe their work to be about utopia, informed by research in urban planning, economics, politics and history. When I first heard this I was reminded of that period in 2009-2012, just after the period when exhibitions about “archive” were hot (2002-2005), when utopia was brought back into the spotlight. And, in hindsight, the Obama period was more utopian than how the world would descend. But Studio Asynchrom’s meditation on utopia is more related to the contemporary state craft of the European Union and geopolitics than the imaginary of urban plans or manifestation of universal humanistic ideals, e.g. Buckminster Fuller, as previous manifestations of utopian study have focused. ASYNCHROME’s recognition utopian limitations is most clearly seen in their works installed for the Neue Galerie’s Kunstraum Steiermark 2018. The title of the work, EU-topia, is written on one of the drawings with the logos major tech companies comprising the homophone.[3]

Their exhibition, “Autopropaganda, or Capital is a Bad Meditor,” was shown at Kunsthalle Graz. The show was comprised of drawings printed on UV plexiglass. Each work is an arena for a mash up actors or icons who represent a power player or generic servant within power structures. A rendition of Delacroix’s Liberty Leading the People is extended with a pile of skeleton bones and the flag bearer aging with each step, like a Steps of Life painting with only allegory toward death. In another work the busts of the Koch brothers loom on the horizon behind a geodesic dome surrounded by a wall of that is tumbling down as a group of militant youth in the foreground search for someone to beat. The characters of these works look lifted from a Google image search, pasted into a collage and re-drawn by hand in order to homogenize issues of color, pixelation, and copyright, though attention to perspective, plane and scale are handled less rigorously. The attraction to symbol and icon are as dehumanizing of the people in these drawings as the statistics about artificial intelligence or authoritarian governments, which are pasted into the background.

Michael gave me the catalog, which is divided into five parts: resistance, influence, awareness, border?, and distribution. The essay by Wenzel Mraček frames their work within the Foucauldian theory of dispositif, the structural entities that maintain power over the social body. (In most English editions of Foucault, ‘dispositif’ is translated as ‘apparatus.’)

"Only one aspect of many statistical surveys that are relevant in such a context is that more turnover is generated worldwide from data volumes today than from business with crude oil. If one understands the amounts of data with information potential as working capital in this sense, Studio ASYNCHROME concludes that capital is a fairly "bad mediator." Conversely, calculated self-presentation is based on targeted amounts of data to a large number of users. This is how individuals and global corporations spread Autopropaganda." [2]

Graz has been good to Michael and Marleen; they had steadily showed their work in many institutions and exhibitions, including the Steirischer Herbst 2018. Strategically, they were thinking of Graz as their base of production but had aspirations to be working internationally, as a way to avoid the size and opportunity limitations of being in a smaller city (even though Graz has disproportionately more opportunities than most cities of its population). While many may simply leave Graz for the larger art scene of Vienna or Berlin, it’s not clear which option is better: having a large studio in a small pond, or a small fish in a sea.

After meeting with Michael and Marleen, I met Markus Wilfling in his studio just down the hall. Markus’ artwork could not be more different than Studio ASYNCHROME’s. Markus was making a silhouette portrait of himself for a collector, inspired by the silhouette portrait of Alfred Hitchcock. The work in progress was made of rubber strips that were stacked and glued together with contact cement.

Our visit together was primarily directed by a monograph of his work that he gave me. It was helpful since his huge studio had work from all eras of his practice and in states of being built, disassembled, packed, stored, suspended, mounted or taken apart.

The monograph, “Zwischen dem Raum,” spans Wilfling’s practice to the date of publication, 2009.[4] Thematically, his work uses form and symbols to play with the visitor’s expectations. His work was easy to like and even more easily accessible; he makes public art. His physical mirrors–artworks that make a situation appear as if mirrored, but were actually adjacent installations reversed–were either cliche or pioneering; I’ve seen dozens of artists who did that in the late 1990s, but who knows who was the first. Yet even these were still enjoyable.

Wilfling is as adept using symbols as he is distorting their meaning through traditional sculptural tools of space, texture, material and placement. In the sculptural lineage of the 1990s and early 21st Century, I saw his works comparable to Gabriel Orozco, Maurizio Cattelan or Mel Chin. Markus has been prolific in this fertile realm for decades, which may explain why some of his best works are the most recent, including a public urinal that diverts urine back onto the shoes of the pisser. While I was visiting, he was simultaneously constructing a portable roulette table.

Wilfling’s shadow objects–a duplicate object positioned near quotidian object–are exemplary of his practice: this work needs no wall text, no introduction, no instructions or curators to defend it. Many works are without title, not because of a formal protest against titles, as one finds in the Ab Ex movement, not as a protest that an artwork can, indeed must, speak for itself, but because these works operate on vocabulary that uncomfortably universal to the movements of relativity or contextuality that would follow it. Movements that referenced Foucault.

This epoch of artwork, often referred to as visual conceptual art, visually and thematically shared more in common with Dada's use of symbols and belief in the capacity to communicate through universal visual means than Conceptual Art. Systematically, the 1990s artists like Orozco or Chin did not continue the discourse of the 1966-1977 Conceptual artists of systems, language or philosophy. The 1990s artists didn't share the central critique of commodification of art that the conceptual artists of the 60s and 70s shared (perhaps in part because the latter were marginalized from the commercial scene while the former were embraced by the exploding art market). What caused Conceptual Artists to make landart, particularly their exclusion from commercial galleries, and make large-scale works was by the 1990s already being integrated into a heavily-funded public art program in many major cities. The works of Wilfling, Orozco and Chin are highly "finished," compared to artworks from the Conceptual Art movement of the 60s and 70s. The craftsmanship of the 1990s paralleled an aesthetics of industrial production; the hurdle was to mimic or alter this handless aesthetic to the point that the interfering hand of the artist disappeared. The suggestion was the familiar environment was totally manufactured, machined and standardized and, in order to reach the uncanny, the humorous, the clever or the alternative, which summarily comprised the role of these artists, an aberration was embedded in this landscape. But in order to interrupt, materials and mastery over these materials, was necessary.

"If we consider the method and practice of shifting perception, of both delightfully and intelligently deceiving, to be characteristic of Markus Wilfling, then the space outside the doors of artistic rooms, mouth the aesthetics of everyday life, provides a field of action which allows him to bring these concerns into sharp focus."[5]

There's an interesting evolution or shift that can be seen between the visual language of studio ASYNCHROME and Wilfling. Both rely heavily on the signifier and the signified but find their repository in vastly different spaces. Wilfling collapses the particular in the general through domestic and familiar spaces while ASYNCHROME finds the general in that which is globally shared on the Internet.

Thursday marked the first of an annual series of protest in Graz against the ruling state government of Sebastian Kurz. Studio ASYNCHROME made the central banner for the marchers; Markus planned to join the procession. The protests were planned for every second and fourth Thursday of each month, meeting in Lendplatz and weaving through the city. After a series of speeches, the crowd of mostly students began a cacophonous march that sounded more like a parade than a protest. The bystanders looked on appreciatively, smiling in the neon light of the Ferris wheel as I left the crowd. The footage I shot would represent the protest against the Speicherkanal, a conflation that would frame protests in a larger context of social discontent.


[1]  Paths to EU-topia
http://www.asynchrome.com/paths-to-eu-topia-neue-galerie-graz/
[2] "Autopropaganda," Studio ASYNCHROME, Kunsthalle Graz Verein für zeitgenössische Kunst, Graz, Österreich, 2018
[3] https://www.museum-joanneum.at/neue-galerie-graz/ausstellungen/ausstellungen/events/event/6885/kunstraum-steiermark-2018
[4] “Zwischen dem Raum,” Markus Wilfling, Bibliothek der Provinz, Graz, Österreich, 2009
https://www.bibliothekderprovinz.at/buch/6256/
[5] Zwischen dem Raum,” Werner Fenz, Bibliothek der Provinz, Graz, Österreich, 2009,p 47

20181130: Uni Graz | TU

Editing the footage of the interviews called for some sort of establishing shots to indicate from where these interlocutors anchored their expertise, and the consistency of a documentary element that I was so far constructing. Steven Weiss, a professor at University of Graz, was inadvertently filmed within my room at Priesterseminar, which was located next to the original university of Graz. Perhaps it was even more apt that it the interview was filmed at Priesterseminar, continued the tradition of the university and its staff acting under the influence of the Catholic Church. The establishing shot that I found to frame the segment with Weiss was a rack focus between a university sign on the Uni Graz campus and the building of Natural Sciences.

Günter Gruber worked within the department of water engineering at the Technische Universität Graz. The opposition between these two experts of different departments and different universities is not unusual but important to recall when the dogma of a political righteousness has formed. Even experts disagree.

20181201: Kunsthaus Graz | Gries

"Congo Stars" is group show of 70 Congolese artists living in Paris, Brussels, Kinshasa and Lubumbashi. The list of participating artists on the website ends with "and many more." [1] Entering the exhibition one is orientated by two architectural models of a city block made of cardboard, by Bodys Isek Kingelez. The works locate the visitor into a colorful and multicultural urban space. Kingelez was working in the second half of the 20th Century making “futuristic visions for Congo’s transition after its independence from Belgian rule.” [2] The models are amazing in detail and certainly stand out from the rest of the exhibition's works, which mostly pivot between paintings of historical events or documentary.

A central orienting device in the exhibition was a two-sided timeline that bisected each from of the exhibition, recounting in parallel the colonization through decolonization of Congo by the Dutch and Africa by Austria. I found my own relation there when I read of the formation of the Afro-Asiatische Institut in the 1960s, which was intended as a conduit of exchange for Austria's former colonial lands. The timeline could have been an artwork or exhibition in its own right; it offered both the large scope of geopolitical events but also the specific histories, such as assassinations, production of artworks.

I was surprised by how many paintings there were, or rather how few of other media were included. Since most painters draws also, works on paper could have easily been included and would have offered a window into the development of some of these works, giving them more of their own universe, rather than simply include as many painter's paintings as possible. The few videos that were interesting: a performance of a woman hanging laundry; another showed a dry, eroded landscape from which colorful smoke was fuming; it reminded me of the sulphur mines I've seen. But by the time I got to them on the second floor, I was already tired from wading through history and dozens of oil on canvases.

This could be thought of as a post-colonial or Congolese diaspora exhibition; the terms are not mutually exclusive, but there are repercussions to framing an exhibition in either way. "Post-colonial" includes artworks about colonization, perhaps not even by someone who was ever directly colonized. I couldn't help but think about how the interest in post-coloniality may recreate or mimic the attraction to the exotic that was rampant in mid-to-late 19th Century Western art history: Delacroix, Degas and Gauguin–who was perhaps the most colonial of all artists because his work isn't considered with these aesthetic canons of the representations, but his methodology of working in Tahiti, depicting the Westernized community as exotic, and enjoying the sexual liberation of the islanders in the same way the colonizers traveled from Europe to indulge in the exotic women in distant lands. Is our fascination for paintings from the Congo greater than our fascination for Congolese paintings by painters who moved to Paris, Brussels or Graz? Has our appetite for the exotic grown from the Other that lives in our building, neighborhood, city or country to reach out to another country from which our neighbor originates? Are those who are in between–those whose parents were colonized but whose children have grown up in a new land–still a relevant part of the narrative to which our fascination tracks? That is, mus the Other be authentically Another, culturally, linguistically, etc.? Is our interest limited by the absence of institutions in those exotic countries, and so we temporarily settle on a local who has only a remote connection to another culture, until that culture builds its own institutions? Is our attraction to post-coloniality toward the exotic Other, or a hope to reverse our exploitative past behavior and re-distribute wealth for the improvement, development or modernization of those crippled by poverty, or both, and does any, either, or all of these motivations really vary from the motivations of colonialism in the first place?

Behind the Kunsthaus is the neighborhood of Gries. It's an immigrant community, the parts of which I've seen are largely Turkish. Between the cafes, restaurants and grocery stores, I was struck by the prevalence of barbershops filled with young men whose hairstyle – shape ups, flat-tops, etc – formed by and dependent upon a personal subscriptions to hair products, resembled the barber shops and styles found in Puerto Rican and Dominican neighborhoods in the Bronx, Brooklyn and Harlem. Are these two communities in conversation? Could visual representations in music culture drive this industry?

Cities are technologies of the Stone Age; streets, passageways, stairways and city walls made of brick and stone.


[1] "With works by

Abis, Alfi Alfa, Sammy Baloji, Gilbert Banza Nkulu, Chéri Benga, Bodo, Vitshois Mwilambwe Bondo, Burozi, Dominique Bwalya Mwando, Chéri Cherin, Trésor Cherin, Djilatendo, Ekunde, Sam Ilus, Jean Kamba, Lady Kambulu, Eddy Kamuanga Ilunga, Kasongo, Jean Mukendi Katambayi, Aundu Kiala, J.P. Kiangu, Bodys Isek Kingelez, Ange Kumbi, Hilaire Balu Kuyangiko, Londe, Albert et Antoinette Lubaki, Gosette Lubondo, Ernest Lungieki, George Makaya Lusavuvu, Tinda Lwimba, Michèle Magema, Maurice Mbikayi, Maman Masamba, Matanda, Mbuëcky Jumeaux, JP Mika, Mega Mingiedi Tunga, Moke, Moke-Fils, Gedeon Ndonda, Nkaz Mav, Vincent Nkulu, Vuza Ntoko, Chéri Samba, SAPINart, Monsengo Shula, Sim Simaro, Maître SYMS, Tambwe, Tshibumba Kanda Matulu, Pathy Tshindele Kapinga, Tuur Van Balen & Revital Cohen and many more."

"Congo Stars," Exhibition, Universalmuseum Joanneum, Kunsthaus Graz, 22 September 2018 - 27 January 2019
https://www.museum-joanneum.at/en/kunsthaus-graz/exhibitions/exhibitions/events/event/6973/congo-stars-3
[2]"Fantastical Cityscapes of Cardboard and Glue at MoMA," Roberta Smith, NY Times, May 31, 2018
https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/31/arts/design/bodys-isek-kingelez-review-moma.html?action=click&module=RelatedLinks&pgtype=Article

20181202: Buschenschank | Perchten

Puntigamer is the local beer. At 5.1%, it tries to distinguish itself from Heineken with a slightly darker shade and beautiful blue insignia that is readily found around the town of Graz. Gösser and Murauer are the other two local favorites; only Murauer has any flavor or body to it. The pilsner version has some hops and flavor. But there is a growing market of craft beers–Forstners for example–that vigilantly fighting against the Reinheitgebot. I had one beer infused with chili that was excellent. The general beer market here is a decade behind North America, in regard to the scenario of walking into a bar and getting exclusively good, flavorful beers on draft. After the first week of trying the local beers here, I realized why Austria is really known for its white wine.

After the interview, Werner Sprung stated that Styria is known for a wine called schilcher, which is best drank with meat in the hills. I first thought the invitation was empty but when he suggested that we drive 40 minutes outside the city, I realized he was serious. Iris excused herself with an ailment, which left me to journey with Werner and his daughter Eva, to a buschenshank near his home in Lannach. Making small talk I learned that Eva studied sociology; similarly Werner's wife worked for the state dispersing social welfare benefits. I wondered how different these factions fighting over the Speicherkanal really were.

Our Buschenshank had a large wine corkscrew sculpture in the driveway. The vineyards were dormant for the winter. Fog held the hills in ransom from the sun. 20 meters away was another Buschenshank. Beyond that was another. The institution was once a farmer’s house that people could visit and eat from whatever was being grown there at that time. It was the original farm to table, or rather person to farm, model of eating. Today, they are mini-hotels where mostly Austrian tourists come to “getaway from it all” and eat food, drink, and buschenshank-crawl to the neighboring building. In the vicinity I counted more than a dozen. The traditional food is a variety meats – salami, sausage, pate – with cheeses and horseradish. Bread. No chlorophyll. Werner ordered me a large board and a half for himself. Eva had only glühwein and schilcher. Our entire bill was around 20 €.

For the following weeks, I related this experience to people I met in Berlin, or Germans in Graz, and each was horrified by my experience. I didn’t get it. They would ask me how I was let in, whether there were women there, or if I saw Nazi flags. I was totally confused and suspecting this was some sort of Germany stereotype of Austria. It wasn’t until my final week in Graz that Iris corrected my experience and distinguished the two words. Whenever I mentioned my trip, my brutal pronunciation of ‘Buschenshank’ was misunderstood as ‘Burschenschaft’ and a conversation about Neo-nazi influence or genealogy of certain fraternities would evolve.

Pre-Christian iconography holds steadfast in Central Europe with the winter tradition of Krampus and Perchten. Krampus is a monster with goat horns that terrorizes children, acting as an anti-Saint Nicholas. Instead of giving gifts he scares young children who have been bad, or warns them of their folly. In the crowd along Herrengasse, Krampus rams toward the metal barricades and then poses for the smartphone pictures. He gives the kids on dad's shoulders a hi-five, then runs to the other side of the parade wall. The parade is supposed to occur every year on December 6, but cities has a weekend for this reason. I was told by Werner that actually Perchten was not celebrated in Graz until more recently. The culture continues to evolve; I saw the devils posing for selfies with the children they were assigned to terrorize.

20121203: Graz | Berlin

I met with Eva and Iris at Schaumbad to discuss the logistics of my art brunch. Iris had suggested I invited Steven Weiss to talk about the Murkraftwerk while I had suggested Günter Gruber and Romana Ull. After a lot of back and forth, proposing variations and possibilities, we settled with Iris’ suggestion. Tangentially I tried to improvise some of the conclusions I had reached about the ZSK, the first being the power play between city hall and the protesters. Rather than it being a voluntary situation, I proposed that it may have been a function of the West’s declining power in the world and that the right-wing austerity measures were a larger example of the situation with the power plant: a desperate grapple at a projected value in a near-future in which things are getting more expensive. Eva replied that Austria was one of the richest countries in the world.

After the conference Franz drove me to Flughafen Graz and I tried to ask him basic questions in German on the ride. Franz has such great energy–so funny and positive–that even a person who doesn't speak the language feels ok making mistakes in front of him, or at him.

At the airport a guard there gave directions on separating luggage and checked tickets and passports. The metal scanners were guarded by two happy security guards, and the waiting room was spacious and clean. There were three people in the line for security. Flughafen Graz was what every airport should be, and I feared not even it can continue to be much longer. I expected it would devolve into what most airports are: a crowded perpetual crisis-situation that aspires to monetize traveler's fatigue rather than address the levels of anxiety that the air travel industry mandates.

I returned to thinking about what Eva mentioned about Austria being one of the wealthiest countries in the world. What did she mean? Why did she say it?

In response to my remark about the decline of America and the supposed decline of the European Union, her remark seemed to claim that "they could afford it," "it" being the social welfare that the right-leaning government was cutting.

But wealth is a funny thing. It's inaccurate because it doesn't mean the same thing to different people who are wealthy, and it doesn't mean that everyone is in a country is wealthy. There are different metrics for wealth; the metric to conclude that Austria is one of the wealthiest countries in the world is median net worth, which is the total country's wealth divided by the number of inhabitants. At 8 million people, that's not hard to imagine. In fact, most small European countries land toward the top of that metric. In terms of average income, the US nears the top, which may explain the smartphones. But it curious that most countries that are wealthy have a way of calculating their country is the wealthiest.

My point about economic decline referred to wealth as a function of power, in the context of political and economic bargaining. When the metric is total wealth, and the US sits discomfortable at the top, about double the wealth of China. Japan is third. Austria barely makes the top 20, but really maintains bargaining power as function of its membership to the European Union. My point of decline was also intended to relate to the known and explicit American withdrawal from foreign affairs that otherwise shield Europe; specifically militarily, and the subsequent swing of left-leaning countries to the right, in order to fill the void. German had already begun to rebuild its army over the prior two years. Merkel openly stated that Germany could no longer rely on American military protection. [1] Which other countries will follow suit? The militarization of Europe clearly a recall on America carrying the White Man's Burden, a costly role from which America has at other times retreated.


[1] Germany's Merkel calls for a European Union military. Router's November 13, 2018.
https://www.reuters.com/article/us-eu-politics-merkel/germanys-merkel-calls-for-a-european-union-military-idUSKCN1NI1UQ

20181204: Moabit | Neukölln

Square, Triangle, Circle in Moabit

In 2012 I was assembling videos about architectural panopticon prisons. My interest in Foucault's writings took a tangent into the prison reform projects of the 19th Century. The first site I visited was Philadelphia's Eastern State Penitentiary. It was the first penal institution to design and theorize solitary confinement, based on the Quaker belief that one could be redeem through a direct relationship with God if only one were provided the time for study and reflection, rather than co-mingling with debauchery. Isolation toward penal reform manifested in the architecture of solitary confinement, but also the designs to inhibit prisoners from communicating with each other. Silence was mandated. The role of the central prison guard was to observe not only the cell doors but any communication that occurred in any wing of the prison.

The second prison I visited was in Sài Gòn’s Chi Hoa. The prison is still functional and, at the time, it was alleged some prisoners from the “War of American Aggression” were still housed there. I took a ride around the prison on motorbike to understand its size. Its massive but almost feels invisible in the chaos of Sài Gòn. The prison is bordered by a tall concrete wall and apartment buildings.

The third prison I visited was Moabit during the Sound Development City residency in 2012. Still in operation in 2018, just outside the city center, the prison was part of a criminal justice complex that occupied an entire city block, in which someone can be held, prosecuted, and imprisoned without even crossing the street. Three blocks from the complex was a state park dedicated to the closure of the previous Moabit prison, which sat where the park grounds. Across the street from the Hauptbahnhof was the park memorializing a site-specific punishment of a previous period, but the institution had simply moved to a new is larger location, three blocks away.

Returning to re-record Moabit's panopticon because of superior equipment and knowledge, I found that not much had changed on the prison's exterior. The same strange artwork of a man dangling from the Scales of Justice perched above the main gate, where I recorded two police vans exiting–both in 2012 and in 2018 (this year the female officer in the passenger seat flipped me off)–the same barbed wire at the top of the wall, which kept people in as well as out, and the same sculpture of a lion killing a serpent on the west side of the complex grounds.

On the way to lunch I went to the Daimler Collection and saw the exhibition “Evoking Reality.” Primarily photographs of the state of the world. Gorgeous, high production-value images depicted the world in distress. Although not included, it was really Edward Burtynsky’s exhibition.

Jeff Weber made blotwurst, potato and rotkohl. He gave me a copy of his new book, “An Attempt at a Personal Epistemology,” which amassed his photographs that span the documentation of his project, Kunsthalle Leipzig, document his own artwork, more traditional photographs that would qualify as art photography, travel photography and artists with whom he’d worked. 500 pages, beautiful but too big. It's title came from an earlier work of his in which he used a card catalog to "attempt a personal epistemology." More Foucault. Weber’s apartment looked like a photography studio with mixing tanks an enlargers dominating the visual and physical space. Two book shelves hung, fully stacked, from the walls. He’d lived there since moving back to Europe after our residency at the ISCP. He paid 350€ per month but expected the landlord would try to kick him out soon, renovate the space and rent it to some Americans. Outsiders.

Jeff seemed even more preoccupied with politics than Abraham, Eva and I and just as unqualified to talk about it. Equivocating the rise of the populists in Germany with the pervasion of the corporate agenda of Merkel, I had to ask, if a reaction against Merkel were explained or justified, why not a rise of a Green movement? Or of Anarchists? Outside I found a poster of a march against Neo-Nazis. I rolled it up and carried for historical proof that even in Germany people weren’t studying history well enough.

In the evening I returned to another 2012 project I had started and filmed in Berlin: a meditation on the uses of Olympic Stadia. Thinking about the international status of these high-profile games and the massive urban developments that are created in justification of demonstrating a country's membership in the international community is followed by many of these mega projects creating massive sites of disutility. In 2012 I filmed the parking lot of the stadium, as the space was used for driving school practice. In 2018 the parking lot was still used for driving practice.


[1] Jeff Weber, Berlin Art Link
https://www.berlinartlink.com/2016/09/29/jeff-weber/


20181205: Johan König | KW Institute

At the Berlinische Galerie I saw Julian Charrière's Gasag Art Prize show, "As We Used to Float," a "multimedia spatial installation that takes visitors below the surface of the Pacific Ocean. Seventy years after the United States first began testing atomic weapons on Bikini Atoll, the artist embarked on an expedition into the territory which is now permanently uninhabitable for humans due to the environmental damage caused by those tests. The exhibition depicts the legacies left behind both above and below the sea level, enabling visitors to experience them physically within the exhibition space." [1]

The large screen projection was followed by a room of stacked lead (?) missile radome's, a second screen and a chandelier of plastic bags with algal growth in it. Charrière, a student of Olafur Eliasson's Institutionalization für Raumexperimente, is positioning himself to be a Eliasson replica.

Aesthetically there is a documentary "truth" conveyance in the footage, an absent editor who is neutrally showing the horrors of aged demolition. But the approach isn't so different from Alexander von Humboldt's approach in Latin America, who went about "discovering" plants and animals, i.e. putting them in European taxonomical systems, all the while brushing away the knowledge of the the indigenous people. I found it strange, or maybe even 19th Century, that Charrière depicted something that was deemed the uninhabitable for humans based on the conditions of the island, but he didn't bother to actually depict any humans–where those people went, the surrounding islands Marshall Islands. It was as if Charrière missed what was unfortunate about the site he was documenting and recapitulated the same gravity in his film. A more humane approach could have include the voices of people from the Marshall Islands, many of whom have moved to Oregon, or the story of the people displaced. That would have had an element of emotion, rather than just contextualized landscape documentary. But that’s a position in contemporary art.

Nina E. Schönefeld's "Dark Waters" (2018, 15:55 min) and "Snow Fox" (2018, 10:03 min) are part of a fictional series of videos that imagine a future world in which the current political, social and environmental crisis have further evolved for the worse. "Snow Fox" is described as "a science fiction film set in the near future: the eponymous heroine works for a company that manipulates the weather, resulting in the spread of brain disease. Snow Fox meets a group of women fighting for the last 'natural' place on Earth." I watched for 12 minutes but got annoyed by the genre bending.

"Schönefeld quotes the aesthetics of various formats and genres – from blockbuster series like Mr. Robot or classics of cinema like Clockwork Orange to computer game tutorials and high-end streetwear by Gosha Rubchinskiy." [2]

On the bottom floor of Johan König gallery were three works made of magnets. Visually, it referenced Ad Reinhardt's Black paintings, but the pattern more clearly matched squared hardworking floors. The experience viewing the works are precisely, walk into the room, see black textured surface, notice one of the floor standing away from the wall, vertically and independent of a support, return to looking at the wall piece, think of graphite, notice the texture, look within each square and realize these are made of magnets, look back at the floor piece and then realize a third, towering pillar was in the corner, leave.

On the second floor was the film "I Can See Forever," by Jeremy Shaw. The film, which is either found footage or shot on VHS, exploits the familiar texture to distort the temporality of the film that supposed takes place in a future beyond 2018, but is discussed in a recent past tense.

"I Can See Forever" is a pseudo-documentary set approximately 40 years in the future. It is presented as an episode of a documentary television series about the 'Singularity Project' – a failed government experiment that aimed to create a harmonious synthesis of human and machine. The film exposes the story of the only known survivor, 27 year-old Roderick Dale. Born with an 8.7% Machine DNA biology and uninterested in the virtual reality-trappings of his time, Dale has committed himself to a life immersed in dance. During his unique, virtuosic activities, he claims to be able to 'See Forever' – a multi-layered and contentious term that he defines as the ability to transcend to a digital plane of total unity while maintaining a corporeal physical presence. His rather hermetic life is devoted to studying ballet, modern, and various subcultural styles of dance on television. Candid scenes of a solitary Dale traversing empty civic spaces confirm the fact that ordinary denizens prefer to privately absorb themselves in the The Unit – an advanced virtual reality device that has replaced spiritual experience in humans."[2] I really liked the video until I learned that he had used basically the same special effects of the dance sequence in the previous video of the Quantification Trilogy, “Liminals” (2017). The scene is the last part of the film. He’s built up the anticipation of this transcendental dancer. The effect is basically a pixelated tracer of the dancer slowing to a free and then being interrupted and erased by another shot, in succession. The fact that the effect was a gimmick, and not styled for that particular video changed how I thought of the sequence.

I visited the KW institute for the final hour. The most interesting show a retrospective of Beatriz González, a Colombian artist, whose works span sixty years and 120 works. Her paintings reminded me of the paintings in the Botero Museum of Medellín, not stylistically, but as representation of the political and social violence of the period, La Violencia, specifically of those that showed the battle and killing of Pedro Escobar. But I preferred González approach. Flat portraits and paintings showed people in mourning. Or in front of Columbarios, the silhouettes of two people carrying a dead body. In the largest exhibition room were the oversized furniture works from her 1970s Pop Art period. Oversized dinner platters or plates, mis-proportioned beds, all with some kitschy painting on it, reminded me of the works of Carlos Castro Arias, and suggested a pathway between Castro’s use of symbols in political critique and kitsch materials.

All of these museum visits were crude ways of killing time in Berlin until Weber's book launch at KW Institute. Jeff’s book launch began with a 20 minute film by Robert Beavers, made in the 1960s but not edited until the 2000s. Curiously, Beavers has been known to revise his film, particularly his early works. The film was comprised of short clips of a young man near a swimming pool, and a man on a beach, reclining, that finally moved in doors to Beavers reflecting a light off a mirror at the camera. Beavers was born in 1949, and I wondered if that young man in the film was not the filmmaker himself. A level of youthful eroticism coded the shots. I estimated that there were 50 different shots that were somewhat randomly woven, repeating throughout the film. I found myself wanting to just look at each shot in total duration. But the shot were gorgeous; saturated colors and well-composed. Non narrative, philosophical.  P. Adams Sitney describes Beavers style and poetics approach:

“The tactility of the cinematic image plays a central role in all of Beavers’s films. He frequently portrays the filmmaker as a hand craftsman, focusing the lens, pushing a filter across the plane of vision, making a splice. Even more often, he films hand gestures, clapping, touching, and shaping imaginary spaces. In all these references to the sense of touching there is a double acknowledgment of the power of the filmic caress and the impossibility of actually touching anything in cinema: Even the metaphors of the light touching the raw film stock or the projector beam hitting the screen reveal both the desire for a greater substantiality and its impossibility.” [4]

The clapping of the 16mm film projector announced the end. The lights came on.

Jeff and Robert conversed about the film, it’s progeny, and their collaboration at Kunsthalle Leipzig. The event was part of Berlin Sessions, a series of talks between artists. Personally, I wanted to hear more about the relationship of Beavers experience with Kunsthalle Leipzig as it pertained to Jeff’s new book, which I had read. As the last question, I tried in vane to make the connection between the book, Kunsthalle Leipzig, Beavers, appropriation art and the photography generation, but my summary fell short. We left for an after party.


[1] "Julian Charrière: As We Used to Float," Berlinische Galerie Landesmuseum für Moderne Kunst, Fotografie und Architektur, Berlin, Germany, 27 September 2018- 8 April 2019.
[2[ "Nina E. Schönefeld," Berlinische Galerie Landesmuseum für Moderne Kunst, Fotografie und Architektur, Berlin, Germany, 28 November 2018 - 7 January 2019.
[3] "Jeremy Shaw | I Can See Forever," text by Maxwell Stephens,König Galerie, St. Agnes, Berlin, Germany, 24 November - 20 December 2018.
[4] Eyes Upside Down: Visionary Filmmakers and the Heritage of Emerson, P. Adams Sitney, Oxford University Press, New York. 2008

20181206: San Francisco | London | Zurich | Berlin

I always wanted to get to know Christian Ebert better. During our overlapping time at San Francisco Art Institute and later during his six months marriage to Stephanie, which was terminated like an unwanted child in the second trimester, we crossed paths only long enough to get a sense that he was a great guy, but never enough time to get into the weeds. Stephanie lived in Berlin with her husband and children; instead, I reached out to Christian.

He suggested we meet at Hamburger Bahnhof. At first I thought he was making a joke about the Hauptbahnhof. I arrived two hours early and decided to see the show without him, once, so I wouldn't feel rushed or distracted. In the central Historic Hall was a four projection installation of Agnieszka Polska entitled, "The Demon's Brain." The screens shows footage of a devastated forest, dialogue between two people that are dressed to medieval period, a horse rider and a strange, hand-drawn animated owl, which I presumed was the demon. Between the projections were piles of foam core mattresses for visitors to sit on. The film follows "a young messenger tasked with delivering these letters on horseback. Along the way, the boy loses his horse and he gets lost in the forest. There he has an unexpected encounter with a demon, whose monologue fuses Christian theological ideas with today’s developments concerning resource consumption, environmental destruction, data capital, and artificial intelligence." [1] Thematically I really enjoyed the work, but I found that animated parts to be visually hard to swallow. The live film was UHD and cinematic while the animated interludes felt like moving clip art or cartoons. The white horse sequences, rendered in 1990s CGI style, were interesting. The audio was really great. I watched other visitors try to make sense of how to engage this, and most looked like I felt: lost. As a narrative in which there is something “to get,” and, by extension, a necessity “to follow” what is going on, the work may have been better suited for a sit and watch black box setting, rather than multi-channel, meandering format. But that’s another position in contemporary art.

I saw “How to talk with birds, trees, fish, shells, snakes, bulls and lions,” as well, but didn’t feel very much from it. Topically, I was very interested in:

“The emphasis on “speaking” or “talking” raises questions as to how meaning is created and conveyed, and for whom. The concept of “meaning” in Western science seems especially human, since most semiotic modes of communication presuppose a human mindset. And yet language is just one mode of expression in the planetary semiosis, and like other meaningful acts, it is rooted in the environment and all those dependent on it.” [2]

Visually, the show was boring maybe because it actually fulfilled the vision of the international artspeak statement. Don’t use ‘semiosis’ on a wall text. We get that you have a PhD. Also due to the disparate styles of the participating artists, in part due to the poor quality of the artworks. Nothing even slowed my meander through the space.

Christian punctually arrived and we took a coffee in the cafe. I shared with him my sense of never really having got to know him; he corroborated the feeling. Christian makes hard line, abstract paintings, most recently with geometric, triangle and parallelograms. The arc of the conversation bowed under the pressures we both felt to produce art but were a loss not only on how to make a financial foundation from it but how to make the next step in our careers. Painting world and the contemporary art world. Identity politics v. 2.0 and the rest. Positions. We talked about the illusion of teaching artist being outside of the gig economy within which most other artists exist, and the difference of New York and Berlin. It was a conversation that seemed to be on repeat with artists I knew, regardless of their level of “success,” i.e. exhibition history, gallery representation, number of sales or relationship with institutions. (Collectively, this could have been the conversation that bridged the emerging career to the mid-career. The illusion, I thought, was that the “emerging” is a gerund–the stage is one of a process, presupposing action and participation. Was mid-career also gerund? Perhaps it was just “exist early” and if you’re still alive later, there’s a chance of afterwards.) We all seemed to feel that there was more than what we had; and we all hoped that if we had more it would be fulfilling financially, artistically, professionally and personally. That is, we wanted our art practice to do everything for us, to be gesamlebenwerk.

I met Katharina during Sound Development City. She introduced herself back then as an urban researcher; six years later she was finishing a PhD in Urban Planning and was quick to admit that she’d tired of academia and her thesis topic, which she refused to share with me. In the last six years, I had gravitated toward her specialty, probably because I’d been stuck in cities and, even when traveling away from New York, I ended up in another city. Her general focus was on immigration, which itself was a curious inclusion within the field of urban planning. Rather than strictly thinking about streets, infrastructure and zoning, the integration of the immigrant, the foreigner whose class and economic status is presupposed, into the urban plan suggested a further–literally transnational–extension of the focus of the biopolitical. That is, no longer were governing bodies concerned exclusively with their sovereign subjects but with the livelihood of those outside their sovereignty.

In a classic “urban” tradition, i.e. urbanization in the original form of which Ildefons Cerda conceived, the extension of the urban plan onto the rural can now include the projection of the immigrant, the foreigner, first into the urban fabric, localized into what is traditionally thought of as the “city limits” but also later into the suburb and the rural, ultimately “urbanizing” these areas ethnologically. I doubted that this exact theater of generations was what was feared in the political current of ruralites, who didn’t experience immigration and immigrants in the same way that urbanites did but fear them nonetheless. I expected that a more simplistic fear was at work, especially from a perspective of juxtaposition between where it was that people were coming. Which sociopolitical systems each country had and how immigration was seen to interface with it. i.e. Europeans that opposed immigration often did so on the grounds that the immigrants were believed to “exploit” existing social welfare systems, which suggested these systems were both definite and required exchange by paying into them before taking out of them.

“The American urban experience, of immigrants reviving aging inner-cities, sharply contrasts with that of Europe, where immigrants often cluster in large cities but remain marginalized economically and socially, imposing many costs and becoming seen as a long-term drag on growth and vitality.” [3]

These systems don’t exist in the same manner in the U.S., though some do and where they do, one could hear similar complaints of the exploitation of these systems. While in the U.S. the primary retort to immigrants was that they “stole jobs,” which suggested these Americans believed they had a right to access jobs, first or in perpetuity. What should have been noted was both of these systems–social benefits and jobs–were resources that may have been mitigated in the urban fabric, but not necessarily. While the vast majority of jobs or productivity occurred in cities and was from there leveraged for social benefits, many jobs still existed outside of the city. Increasingly the jobs were becoming virtual. How immigration to cities, which “it is safe to conclude that without a massive inflow of non-Americans, the biggest and most economically-vibrant American cities – New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Atlanta, Houston – would surely have stagnated or worse,” will resolve in an age of (potential) placelessness was yet to be seen, particularly when the jobs that required a person to be present (the immigrant?) were replaced by systems of automation. [4] Would we see Cyber Flight, a new version of White Flight, when the physical, cultural and economic infrastructure of cities was outpaced by the digital? I wondered how long people would continue to prefer NYC to LA, after a subway ride was no longer necessary, when remote work was the norm or when local taxation didn’t make sense, when the culture we prefered was online rather than in a museum or on the street. Was this happening already?

I met Jana at a fusion Vietnamese restaurant. It was fitting because I recalled that her father was a diplomat in Southeast Asia and had told me in 2012, also during Sound Development City, that the Vietnamese, i.e. Annam, were essentially Chinese fisherman who moved south down the coast. He was referring to the Lê Dynasty, based in Hà Nội. It made an impression on me, and by 2018, with some tiếng việt lịc sử I realized how contentious what he said really wa. Was referring to the Tang and successive dynasties, which conquered the Cham, or to the North which made a Communist state over the south.

Sound Development City was a three-part series of residencies of five days long, each part in a different city: Berlin, London and Zurich. 13 international artists met and explored each city through the framework of sound. At the time, my proposal had been to write a series of critical essays about cities; I had included my essay on the High Line and Ghost Capital as work samples.

The last time I met Jana she was self-identified as working in theater. Like Katharina, she expressed a sense of inferiority to the sound artists of Sound Development City. 2012 slightly predated a trend of institutions taking an interest in sound art; the trend has for the most part subsided, unfortunately, since I personally though it was more interesting in 2018 than before because sound was more widely in the use of sound in cinema (Hans Zimmer’s Blade Runner 2049), which may have been the last reason to see movies in the cinema, since an increasing number of people could afford inexpensive projectors for their home but few had sophisticated sound systems. Jana was writing scripts for television and web series. In 2012 she was just beginning her relationship with a Colombian; today she could appreciate the cultural differences in holidays and familiar relationships between Germans and Colombians. We agreed that the manner in which Latin families stay close was a technology in and of itself.

It was raining, cold and wet. Walking through the district I saw a synagogue with an armed guard, barricaded. It reminded me of the shooting in Pittsburg, the barricade around the Chabad Center for Jewish Discovery on 19th St. In 2010 I picked up a free book there, “Terrorism and Hostage Negotiations.” [5] Coincidences are a matter of time.


[1] "Agnieszka Polska: The Demon’s Brain," Hamburger Bahnhof: Museum für Gegenwart, Berlin, Germany, 27 September 2018 to 3 March 2019
https://www.smb.museum/en/museums-institutions/hamburger-bahnhof/exhibitions/detail/agnieszka-polska-the-demons-brain.html
[2] “How to talk with birds, trees, fish, shells, snakes, bulls and lions,” Hamburger Bahnhof: Museum für Gegenwart, Berlin, Germany 16 November 2018 to 12 May 2019
https://www.smb.museum/en/museums-institutions/hamburger-bahnhof/exhibitions/detail/how-to-talk-with-birds-trees-fish-shells-snakes-bulls-and-lions.html
[3] “Immigrants as urban saviors: When Immigrants Revive a City and When They Don’t - Lessons from the United States,” G. Pascal Zachary, Council of Europe, 2006
https://rm.coe.int/16804925d6
[4] Ibid.
[5] “Terrorism and Hostage Negotiations,” Abraham Miller, Westview Press, 1983.
https://www.amazon.com/Terrorism-Negotiations-Westview-National-International/dp/0891588566

20181207: Berlin | Graz

The Dorotheenstädtischen Cemetery houses the graves of Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel, Bertolt Brecht and Herbert Marcuse, among many other not as famous people. Overgrown and modestly tended, the Germany cemetery is the closest thing that Berlin has to Paris’ Père Lachaise. Coincidentally, the French cemetery, the Huguenot, adjacent to Dorotheenstädtischen, is often confused for the Dorotheenstädtischen. The dead of different nationalities can’t cohabite a necropolis. I strolled the grounds for a few hours before my Easyjet flight back to Graz. The cemetery itself was as much of a landmark of what was preserved, as much had been erased. Many headstones and precious metals were stolen from Dorotheenstädtischen and sold during the 1920/30s economic crises, forever gone, blotted out. A monument to a Nazi resistance fighters who attempted to assassinate Hitler in 1944 bears the name Klaus Bonhoeffer, Hans John, Richard Kuenzer, Carl Adolf Marks, Wilhelm zur Nieden, Friedrich Justus Perels, Rüdiger Schleicher and Hans Ludwig Sierks; heroes of a parallel universe in which the tides of history crashed on different shores. On the side of one monument, I saw the patterned destruction of bullet holes or shrapnel, possibly from the second world war. Dead people were not only buried here, some people died there.

I stopped at my favorite bakery in Berlin, Freundliche Bäckerei, on my way to Tegel airport. Easyjet is located in Terminal C, a European interpretation of a FEMA shelter, with enough seating for 20 people and crowds of children and travelers sitting on the floor and passageways. In contrast to Terminal A, which houses all the non-budget airlines, this section is where pride goes to die, where the struggle to be part of the traveling class continues, and where all the corners have been cut so thoroughly that only a circle of self-hatred and pity exists. Personally, this manifested in my lower back, which I aggravated by squatting on the floor too long and almost fell over in pain when I stood up. I was happy to return to Graz, to say the least, which was a culture shock coming from a the city that I had previously highly revered: Berlin was a shithole.

During the last four days, I had stayed in the absolute worst airbnb and likely the worst habitation of any city or country in my life. Located Moabit, just west of the Mitte, this student apartment had never been cleaned since the lease was signed. Staying inside, sleeping there, was something of a culture shock because it made me suspicious of the interior of every apartment building I saw in Berlin. Could these too be the absolute squalor in which I’ve slept? I originally had searched for a private apartment in Berlin, but was surprised by the prices for a city that was allegedly “cheaper” than New York. Then I looked at hotels, but it was difficult to separate youth hostels from hotels from the search results. I went back to airbnb after having mistakenly believed I had found a private apartment in Prenzlauer Berg. In a follow-up email, I learned it was not a private apartment, but a private room. When I conducted a new search for a private room, I found my final room for a third of the price 12€/night. Indeed that was cheap. But the struggle to cancel the original reservation, which I had made a day before, wasn’t so easy and in the end, because I had reserved the first room four days before my trip and a five-day cancellation policy was in place, I wasn’t refunded my entire original reservation price. In the end I was paying 25€/night for an absolute heroin den, which should be demolished as a gift to humanity.

Four students from China inhabited the flat. All had separate rooms, which were relatively clean from my vantage point in the hallway. The room which I inhabited, Bao’s, was the smallest. A mattress on a board on a mattress on the floor occupied precisely half of the floor. Dead plants lined the windowsill. Two ikea bookcases bookended the bed, and the top of a desk that was disconnected and laid against the wall functioned as a small shelf. The rooms weren’t the problem. The shared area was. The floor of the hallway was sticky and an intense smell of cheap cooking oil greeted you at the door. The kitchen was so dirty that I avoided entering it at all, except once, and the bathroom was so dirty that even the cleaning supplies, which were covered in dusty, looked ironically unsanitary. A fraying polyester string held up the shower curtain, the shower head lay in the tub, as the support unit which held it was completely non-functional. During the four days there I developed a liking for seated showers, partially because I feared slipping and touching the floor. The toilet was filth metastasized.

The entire building smelled bad, like the oil one tries to wash off after visiting a 99¢ dumplings restaurant after a night of binging; the entrance was in the courtyard, or hof (?) of the block. Construction within the block made me realize that Berlin could become significantly more dense before getting much taller, simply by constructing in this internal open area within the blocks. They could also densify by mandating that each group of students to house and employ a cleaning crew.

20181208: Ukraine | Japan

Even after more than a month, I still met new Austrian students in the kitchen, so when Kseniya emerged I simply thought she was another timid student whom I hadn’t crossed paths. Ukrainian, bubbly, and talkative, the first conversation I had with her, and most of which that would follow, included a comparison of Austrians to Ukrainians and a reference to a YouTube video. Growing up in the post-USSR, she was pro-West, pro-NGO, pro-Gay Rights, pro-Social Media Millennial. She worked as a journalist but had made a detour in the video arts. Topically she worked like journalist; her most recent project was a series of videos and photos about sex-workers in Poland. The photos were of prostitutes wearing a second-hand wedding dress, but their identity was disguised by a spotlight on their face that left details of the face over-exposed. The accompanying video was the mouths of these woman, close up, talking about their experiences. She showed me a video about the first gay rights parade in Kiev and how the police had to restrain and arrest people who attacked the activists.[1] That was in 2016.

I met Tetsugo Hyakutake while at the ISCP in Brooklyn in 2016. During the residency, curator Walter Seidl saw Hyakutake's work and invited him to exhibit in Camera Austria. In 2018 and Tetsugo invited me to his opening in Graz via Facebook. Like many others from around the world, I accepted the invitation and marked my status as "going." There were two types of “going” on Facebook: physically going and emotional-support going. So when he saw me through the crowd at the opening last night, the red flush that I presumed was his allergy to alcohol blossomed. He was swept away by a manic coordinator of the museum, but before he was, we agreed to meet for a walk through Graz.

Tetsugo work concerned with "the controversial debate concerning the responsibility of Emperor Hirohito, now called Emperor Shōwa, for the wartime atrocities committed by Japanese forces. The media hardly covered the topic of his leadership and responsibility during the war, which was generally considered taboo despite the fact that he had full power over the Japanese military according to the imperial constitution of Japan." Seidl goes on to state,"Tetsugo Hyakutake analyzes moments of Japan’s history since World War II and how they have affected current identity formations within the country, which, for many decades has been under the influence of the United States and, for some, still is."[2]

I recalled seeing these large scale urban photos of bridges and canals in Tokyo in his studio in Brooklyn, as well as his photos that had been treated in chlorine to appear more dated. But the relation that Camera Austria had with Japan was more extensive than just Seidl's Japanphilia; the magazine and organization was co-founded by Seiichi Furuya, a Japanese ex-pat who's lived in Europe since the 1970s and is known for his work about his late wife's suicide, "Christine Furuya-Gössler, Mémoires 1978-1985." [3] The outsider had become an insider, or changed the inside.

Our walk went through the Schloßberg tunnels, down to the Freiheitsplatz, turned through the Stadtpark and ended at Posaune. We ordered a pfandl and talked about the travel, photos, videos and how to live in a city like Tokyo or New York but working abroad. How to stake claims.


[1] “Big turn out for Gay Pride in Kiev,” Associated Press Archive.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=585ctLgtwK8
[2] "Tetsugo Hyakutake Postwar Conditions," Walter Seidl, Camera Austria, Graz, Austria, 2018.
https://camera-austria.at/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/ca_ausstellung_hyakutake_folder.pdf
[3] "Biography," Seiichi Furuya
http://www.furuya.at/biography.php



20181209: Separating | Separated

While editing the Empire Kanal, I was reminded of Steven Weiss’s comment of how most European countries were shrinking in population, except Austria. Due to since it's wealth immigration had continued to drive its the population growth. But across Europe a reaction to this form of growth had taken hold in populist movements Hungary, Denmark, France, Germany, Italy, the UK, Austria and even in Spain. I was confused by the reaction and the portrayal of the each political argument in the media. Feeding on the debate, a division had been struck between opposing views. The trend was to label one party ‘far-right’ or ‘far-left.’ But mostly I was confused about each relationship to either political pole to labor.

During the 20th Century, the poles of right and left most coherently followed a relationship to labor with business owners to the right, and laborers to the left. In the 21st Century these two poles are complicated by a vigorous polarity of identity politics. In the US, the complication arose from the conservative party today being the larger supporters to end slavery, Radical Republicans introduced the 1866 civil rights bill, and predominantly supported the 1950s and 1960s civil rights acts. [1] The popular rebuttal to this confusing fact was that the motivation to end slavery was not an ethical decision, but intended to subordinate the power of slave states, which were expanding westward, motivated by the comparative fertility of the soil. That is, Lincoln and the Republicans were motivated by a relationship to labor.

The confusion continues in the history of labor unions and the socialist left. In the 19th and early 20th Century, labor unions were notoriously racist either by excluding blacks all together through constitutions or by-laws, or through the predominately white leadership. [2] [3] Not only were labor unions discriminatory against blacks but their growth during times of increased low-wage work supplied by immigrants equated to ethnic conflict.[4] It’s not hard to believe that many blacks were sympathetic to the Right to Work movements that sought to undermine the exclusivity of jobs to union contractors, although by the mid 20th Century, Martin Luther King Jr. was supporting union protesters.[5] [6] The current protest in populist movements seems vaguely familiar, but with a twist.

Democracy Now and the Financial Times, surrogates for the left and center of American politics respectively, portrayed the political party of Vox, from Andalucia, as “far-right.” The FT subtitle read “Extreme right energised by opposition to Catalan separatism and illegal immigration,” on their December post. [7] RT’s headline read “Right-wing ‘Reconquista?’ Anti-immigrant party enters parliament in Spain’s most populous region.” [8] Neither source actually engaged anyone from Vox, so I was curious to hear a spokesman of Vox denounce the label. [9] What is it meant by “far-right”?

The polarity of right and left in 2018 doesn’t follow the historic cogent divide based on a relationship to labor. “Far-right” and “far-left” became catch-all terms that described the subscription to or against the prioritization of an individual in their national state on economic terms but also how labor interfaced with social identities. The problem was exacerbated by the fact that a political platform or party couldn’t perfectly separate labor from identity. The result was first generation immigrants supporting Brexit, blacks who voted for Trump or Muslims who voted for Le Pen. [10] In the minds of their opposition, these individuals were gullible, confused, or traitors to their race. But in the race of identity politics, money always finishes first.

What’s more confusing is that even opposing poles may arrive to the same conclusion, in one or more of their sub-priorities, based on the success of another sub-priority. For example, Vox is, in part, a reaction to the Catalan independence events of 2017. Three of their four manifesto points reference a strong central state and Spain nation.[11] (A king, a dragon, a knight in shining armor?) But on the spectrum of polarity, if Vox was the far-right, then the Català independent movement was far-left? The autonomous region advocates immigration, the human rights of gender and sexual freedom, but curiously the strongest international supporters of the secession were Alex Jones, the Hungarian Prime Minister Viktor Orban, and Vladimir Putin. [12][13][14] Russian meddling aside, from a simpleton perspective: why would right-winger a left-wing movement? This isn’t to say that the Catalan movement is necessarily right-wing. The elements ethnic preservation of language and culture that justified secession for residents of Cataluña, mirrored the claims for ethnic preservation of “Western culture” in France, Germany and Austria, but also the ethnic element that made Vox far-right. Collectively, these were identity politics concerns and resulted in the creation walls and a march toward separation.

Our attraction to one of the ideals of a political pole, even by the slightest sway, we were supposed to conclude in a complete opposition to all of the ideals of the opposite end of the spectrum. The references were to point to the most egregious examples of politics in the 20th Century. But far-right and far-left were both simplification of belief sets. This was the perversion of the logical formula, with contradiction, all else follows. A series of sub-priorities arise from this subscription: pro- or anti-immigration; pro- or anti-ethnic diversity; pro- or anti-social roles; pro- or anti-gender roles; pro- or anti-anti-social welfare systems. But what’s curious is that, at least some these sub-priorities are read through the lens of labor, yet completely flip the political pole in terms of the 20th Century orientation. The segment of nationalism that is anti-immigration claim that they are motivated by national right to labor and, I suppose, by extension, labor rights. Those on the left would suggest that the real motivation of nationalists opposing immigration is due to racial discrimination against the brown and black people immigrating. The support for labor on the left is through unionization or strong labor laws, yet Trump, a nationalist, was pro-union.

The relation to labor is, more profoundly, a relationship to production, where and how goods are produced. But again the distinction falls short. How would right-wing nationalists aim to preserve jobs for locals or how would left-wing activists garner support for unions are both antiquated models that percolate differently in a world of trade. In some countries nationalism equated to libertarian solution while other countries nationalism looked to centralized regulation. But then in a global, international context the reverse became true. Nationalists stood for de-regulation. Trump stood against free trade, having pulled out of the Trans-Pacific Partnership. This was a flip-flop position of Clinton, and a partnership supported by Obama. Later Trump flip-flopped in responding to the OBOR with trade competition, “‘The new economic vision is obviously targeting China and the ‘Belt and Road Initiative’, and will further complicate US-China relations,’ said Pang Zhongying, a Beijing-based international affairs analyst.”[15]

Hungary’s nationalist Prime Minister strongly supported the One Belt project stating, “Hungary has always been a supporter of the most possibly free and fair global trade network and we have always been supporters of the Eurasian cooperation. That is why we are absolutely interested in the success of the One Belt One Road Initiative and that is why we were the first European country to sign the bilateral cooperation agreement about its implementation.“[16] Does Eurasia include Syria, and would cooperation include housing refugees? Or was Orban a neo-liberal who believed in the movement of material goods and money but not people?

Under the belief to have a more reciprocated trade relationship than the decades of “free trade,” Madrid’s socialist President, Sanchez, also signed onto the One Belt Initiative.[17]

I heard a knock at the door and met Kseniya who had been working all day and had cabin fever. It was Sunday and the only establishment that was open was UP 25, a cocktail bar that was completely empty except for a couple who were holding anchor at the bar. We sat in the non-smoking section. A dart board and a disco-ball created the illusion of activity. I ordered a White Russian, believing it fitting of the anecdotes of Ukraine that Kseniya was recounting. She ordered the same. They were perfectly mixed, shaken, not stirred. A froth on top that permeated the blend. I drank mine before it separated.


[1] How Republicans went from the party of Lincoln to the party of Trump,” Andrew Prokop, Vox, November 10, 2016https://www.vox.com/2016/7/20/12148750/republican-party-trump-lincoln

[2] “Black Workers & the Unions,” Ray Marshall, Dissent Magazine, Winter 1972.
https://www.dissentmagazine.org/article/black-workers-the-unions

[3] “Up from Exclusion: Black and White Workers, Race and the State of Labor History,” Eric Arnesen, Reviews in American History, Volume 26, No. 1, March 1998.
https://muse.jhu.edu/article/28968/summary

[4] “Labor Unrest, Immigration, and Ethnic Conflict in Urban America, 1880-1914,” Susan Olzak, American Journal of Sociology, Volume 94, No. 6, 1989.
https://www.journals.uchicago.edu/doi/abs/10.1086/229156

[5] “Martin Luther King Jr. Championed Civil Rights and Labor Unions,” Berry Craig, America’s Unions, April 2, 2018
https://aflcio.org/2018/4/2/martin-luther-king-jr-championed-civil-rights-and-unions

[6] Keith Lumsden and Craig Petersen posit that Right to Work laws had little to no effect on unionization in the United States.

“The Effect of Right-to-Work Laws on Unionization in the United States,” Journal of Political Economy 83, no. 6, 1975. Pp. 1237-1248
https://www.journals.uchicago.edu/doi/abs/10.1086/260392?journalCode=jpe

[7] “Extreme right energised by opposition to Catalan separatism and illegal immigration,” Ian Mount, Financial Times, December 3, 2018
https://www.ft.com/content/9353854a-f681-11e8-8b7c-6fa24bd5409c

[8] “Right-wing ‘Reconquista’? Anti-immigrant party enters parliament in Spain’s most populous region,” RT News, December 4, 2018
https://www.rt.com/news/445505-spain-anti-immgrant-vox-andalusia/

[9] “Could the rise of Vox bring fascism back to Spain?” Ivan Espinosa de los Monteros, TRT News, December 7, 2018
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feLlL0GGCf8

[10] “Marine Le Pen’s surprise supporters,” David Patrikarakos, Politico, January 23, 2017 https://www.politico.eu/article/marine-le-pen-surprise-muslim-islam-supporters-national-front-banlieues/

[11] “Nuestro Manifesto,” Vox, Spain, 2018.
https://www.voxespana.es/manifiesto-fundacional-vox

[12] “Breaking: Catalan Parliament Declares Independence from Spain,” Alex Jones, InfoWars, October 27, 2017.
https://www.infowars.com/breaking-catalan-parliament-declares-independence-from-spain/

[13] “Hungary to ‘respect’ will of people in Catalonia vote,” Jacopo Barigazzi, Politico, September 18, 2017.
https://www.politico.eu/article/hungary-to-respect-will-of-people-in-catalonia-vote/

[14] “Putin Backs Spanish Integrity Amid Russian Meddling Claims in Catalonia,” Sputnik News, May 26, 2018
https://sputniknews.com/russia/201805261064832813-putin-spain-catalonia-vote-claims-meddling/

[15] “US competes with China’s ‘Belt and Road Initiative’ with US$113 million Asian investment programme,” Shi Jiangtao, Owen Churchill, South China Morning Post, July 30, 2018
https://www.scmp.com/news/china/economy/article/2157381/us-competes-chinas-belt-and-road-initiative-new-asian-investment

[16] “Speech of Viktor Orbán at the first China International Import Expo (CIIE),” Cabinet of the Office of the Prime Minister, Hungary, November 7, 2018.
http://www.kormany.hu/en/the-prime-minister/the-prime-minister-s-speeches/speech-of-viktor-orban-at-the-first-china-international-import-expo-ciie

[17] “China, Spain pledge 'more balanced' trade ties,” France 24, November 28, 2018.
https://www.france24.com/en/20181128-china-spain-pledge-more-balanced-trade-ties

20181210: Wet | Dry

We met Holding Graz at 9am near the Technische Universität. The tour was led by Herr Neumeister who explicitly asked not to be filmed, though he was happy to allow me to mic him for the audio tour, which he led in German. Martin Regelsberger acted as translator and Doubting Thomas. Two additional Holding Graz employees bookcased our tour group, which was about eight artists in total. Almost everyone had a camera with them.

We descended a flight of stairs into the sewer; a wide, channelized stream of clean, clear water flanked on either side by a pedestrian walkway, almost the width of a sidewalk, each flanked by a narrow, 20 cm stream of channelized wastewater, bordering the walls which arched at five meters. Overhead lights cast 4400 kelvin daylight into the segment for the tour. A wooden plank bridged the Grazbach, and Mr. Neumeister began his performance on the sewer stage.

“Das ist schmutzwasser.”

The sewer had been made in response to a fatal flood in 1860.

We came to two channelized rivers that merged into one. The name of one river was named Krabbe, referring to the once abundance of crabs found therein. Mr. Neumeister leapt over a tree branch that partially blocked the the stream and stood at the edge of the Krabbe. Graffiti on the walls explained how bikes could be found there. The tour lasted about 45 minutes and we traveled about five city blocks before surfacing through a door that rose from a sidewalk.

In the evening, Joachim Hainzl starting drawing a map of the city on a notepad. First the old city, east and adjacent to the Mur, walled with a southern gate. The green ring, now the Stadt Park, around the Innere Stadt, was once an open area necessary for defense. Jakomini Platz, developed by a benevolent landowner from what is now Slovenia, was a suburban expansion of the city for a new merchant class. Across the river a series of transportation corridors developed: for a road to Trieste, which had been the Habsburg port, extended up to Vienna. Those working in the profession stayed in the hotels and frequented brothels, both of which were still found in that part of the city. A railway was laid next to the highway, which explained the location of the Hauptbahnhof outside of the city center. The goods that were transported were produced in the industrial centers outside the expanding city, then found in the north, Andritz, west and south. The rail line snaked around the center. The workers for these jobs were housed in the urban developments still found in the neighborhoods, Graz-Neuhart and Puntigamer, which border the industrial zones. This was how Joachim began talking about Foucault, power, and the separation of wet and dry.

Joachim had a massive collection of cigarette boxes. The 55,000+ boxes were his material guide through cultural and colonial history. The collection took up one large, front room of his flat, covering one wall from floor to ceiling and several stacks of cardboard crates through which one must navigate upon entering the room. He showed me several from Vietnam. I was happy to explain the brand Thủ Đô, which commemorated the movement of the capital to from Huế to Hà Nôi, 1954-1964. To collect the packages he looks into garbage bins whenever he travels. Airports were the best.

Joachim explained his love for garbage dating back to his childhood in which he and his sister would wander over the landfill on their family’s property looking for toys. He wore his upbringing on his sleeve and made no apologies for his aspiration for middle class status, power, all the while attempting to subvert the same echelons to which he clambered. He talked about trash in the same way an unattractive man who is adored by a volatile woman finally finds his pride in being pursued. There was an emotional connection, as if the disregard of society were his relative, an abusive step father who sent him to military academy where he had found order, discipline and the animosity of other children but still revered his father.

Joachim described the landfill as ten toy shops, where everything was free. The estranged material had been his artistic material for decades. He aimed to imbue value back into waste by naming it ‘art’ and certifying its authenticity.

The parallel between material waste and social waste is not just in the vernacular used to describe entities that reside in the sphere of disutility, but also targets that demonstrate the power it is to determine something or someone useless. Just as the recycled plastics and metals must be re-used, the criminal must be re-socialized. In the contemporary context, Joachim saw the jobs which were given to immigrants as a repetition of these practices. They were park bathroom cleaners, servants. This was the thesis of Joachim’s study and the trajectory that his work has taken, or rather the reality against which he orientates his work. Joachim reminded me how much I enjoyed reading Michel Foucault.

“...the same walls could contain those condemned by common law, young men who disturbed their families’ peace or squandered their goods, people without profession, and the insane.” [1]

In order to apply the correct treatment, materials–wet or dry–must be separated. Similarly criminals in the 18th century were separated to inhibit the veterans from fostering the novices. The Eastern State Penitentiary is the manifestation of this rationale, the first prison intended for redemption through a direct relation to God, expressing penitence, of course possible only through solitary confinement. 1811.

The plan to separate rain and wastewater from the Mur, in order to treat it was being extended through the development of the Speicherkanal.

Joachim was suspicious toward the mantra of modernity, which he identified as part of the urge for the Zentraler Speicherkanal. In his recounting of the history of sewers in Graz, and the sinkholes which caused contamination of the groundwater, I heard the layers of his disdain and jealousy that his vast research had uncovered; the blatant prioritization of urbanites over the villages downstream; the exercise of political and social power over the less fortunate; and the calcification of these intangible realities in the progress and contestation of the Speicherkanal. “Everything that is culture is good. Everything that is nature or natural urges, desires, is bad.” If one eats too fast, farts or belches–all natural impulse–the person is deemed uncultured, impolite. Perhaps even worse, they were against modernity. Each time Joachim uttered the word ‘bourgeois’ I thought we were nearing the conflagration.

Within the homes of the middle and upper classes, hollow shoots led from interior toilets, down into the cellar where barrels stored the excrement. Laborers hauled these barrels up wooden ramps, which could still be seen Joachim’s apartment. Into my mind came the image of a scheduled worker, hauling drums of heavy human waste, stinking, slopping and spilling onto the street. Shit and piss dripping down the stairs of the basement. Perhaps a servant had a partial duty to clean up the shit, toiling down in the dark, damp cellar. Industries of fertilization and recycling of the excrement arose from the biosolids, but the middle class retaliated by questioning why they should have to pay for a service of hauling away barrels of shit if someone else were profiting from it, and through their protest the middle class forced these companies into bankruptcy. Later the barrels were hauled to a peripheral part of the city, where everything that was unwanted and everything that stank–the slaughterhouse, the cemetery–were dumped off bridges into the Mur. These bridges were still used for dumping snow into the Mur. This was the same part of the city in which Schaumbad was located. Most pointedly, all of these peripheral operations occurred across the Mur, the original, natural and current dividing line of class and culture in Graz.

Later hotels and the homes of upper class introduced water closets, which emptied into the same barrels. But the amount of the fluid used to flush the toilets filled the barrels too quickly. Holes were punctured in the barrels so as to let the water escape, and again the groundwater was contaminated. Again in the name of ‘modernity.’ The water closets were outlawed in response to the contagions, but the power of the upper class, driven by the urge to modernize, changed the law and connected the technology to the channelized sewers. The anecdote illustrated the the hierarchy of power and the position of the upper class, which exude power and legislation for their own convenience, toward their biological functions. Joachim implied that again, the upper class–the business owners, the hydro-power and the mayor–were rehearsing their social renovation under the name of ‘modernity.’ In practicality it was for their own position of benefit. Again modernity had brought back old problems that required new solutions. In the creation of the hydro-power plant, the existing combined sewer overflows cannot drain, so the ZSK must be built.

The waste management industry has de-pressurized the concern for landfills, although our consumption and production habits have only worsened. Joachim’s explanation was that by merely making waste productive, the scrutiny has been alleviated from the capitalist society. The creation of the population as abstract statistics, rather than numerous persons, was a movement toward bureaucratization, which occurred from 1880 to 1910. With the dehumanization of the person to a case number, the separation of mental illness grew exponentially. Everyone had some defect, some abstract ailment manifested in their personality.

All of this discussion, or talking rather, occurred in Joachim’s library, a room opposite his cigarette collection, with floor to ceiling books, all salvaged, organized and treasured by him. The work was ongoing, having been presented as a free library to the citizens of Graz. For him the books represent his aspirations for the middle class, to be in academia, his journey from a humble landfill to a middle-class landfill, organized and stacked to the ceiling.


[1] “Madness and Civilization: A History of Insanity in the Age of Reason,” Michel Foucault, Vintage Books, New York, 1988. pp. 45